The first thing, recommend that all cleaning of the blade of a sword is a task that should be performed by an expert, more when it comes to ancient and valuable parts. There is no question of amateur, Neither of improvisations. In addition, the time is normal that depletes a sword, which is positive, because it can make it more beautiful and valuable.
This article's not restoration, but conservation, but we will not try the conservation of ancient swords from excavations, Neither of shipwrecks, nor of special swords with blades decorated in gold or blued, Neither of fittings Golden fire or with special decorative treatments (nickel plating), Neither of Damascus steel blades, Neither of Oriental leaves of the Japanese tradition.
Is the right criterion of the reader the decision well keep his sword, choosing the most suitable method. The first step to well preserve a sword is adequate cleaning. The Elimination of active oxide reddish and dark and large already stabilized old oxide hardness, is something that should be assessed objectively, because it can be the reflection of an antique which brings the true worth of sword.
The chemical means (acids) they can destroy the oxide, even the most hardened, but they inevitably affect the basis of sheet metal, being able to make disappear a significant part of it, by being very aggressive. For this, should use mild acids, slow-acting, as the acetic (present in vinegar) or citric (in lemon juice), It allows to control exposure.
Other acids such as phosphoric and the nitric, they can be very aggressive and weaken the leaves. Whatever the acid that we use, the leaf surface will have a final look dark and matte, with a multitude of small pores and will surely require a final Polish. It may be that if there is a registration or an engraving on the sheet it affected.
If the acid cleaning, the exposure time must be very short and should experience before over an iron oxidized without value. Then it must be flushed with plenty of water, carefully protecting the lining with plastic bags, to prevent the acid vapors affecting it. Although it is best to detach the sword, to work only with the blade, but should take into account the risk posed to remove it because some of its parts may be damaged.
Purely chemical cleaning methods are not always suitable, including that of electrolysis, Since it implies equally remove the sword.
Mechanical means are associated with a mechanical action on the surface of the blade, in the form of an abrasive friction. This can be applied using power tools or manually, knowing that the way to work by hand is the most recommended.
The abrasive cleaning use a cleaning material harder than the oxide to eradicate it, but softer than the steel of the blade to prevent damage, but it continues to be very delicate this treatment because in practice are abrasions on the sheet as, If you have correctly applied this method, they should not be visible to the naked eye.
The most recommended method is the use of size "00" or "000" steel wool in the presence of light mineral oil, never in dry; they can be oils such as “3 in 1″ the “WD-40″, that it can be used only to clean parts, but they are not suitable for preserving future rusting parts, by tend to evaporate.
Another very useful oil type, more economical and Yes you can meet that dual function is pure mineral oil. We must rub the sheet with wool soaked in oil, without too much force and longitudinal, from the recazo to the top, trying to avoid movements through or perpendicular to the axis of the blade, taking care with engraved leaves and plated or chrome-plated sheets, to not destroy the thin layer of nickel or chrome.
Then given to foil a pass with a generously cloth with clean oil: Active oxide should be gone, but it is possible that in the areas with most ancient oxide, or with chopped, continue to be evident, which is recommended to moisten the wool with a metal cleaner slightly abrasive instead of oil.
Either alone with oil or limpia-metales, It is with patience and slow manual methods, but they are effective. With machines, It may be faster but, in these cases, how fast should not be. The final touch is made with a soft cloth and clean oil, to remove any residue.
It should be taken care with moisture and is recommended to check the State of the swords every six months, aproximadamente, to detect the formation of some kind of rust in time.
Steel is an alloy, or combination of iron and carbon (around 0,05% even less than a 2%). Sometimes added other specific alloying elements such as Cr (Chrome) or Ni (Nickel).
Pure iron is one of the elements of the steel, so it is not free in nature and chemically reacts with the oxygen in the air to form iron oxide – rust.
The different types of steel are classified according to the alloying elements which produce different effects in steel :
CARBON STEELS: More than the 90% of all steels are carbon steels. These steels contain varying amounts of carbon and less than the 1,65% manganese, the 0,60% Silicon and the 0,60% copper.
ALLOY STEELS: These steels contain a certain proportion of vanadium, molybdenum and other elements, In addition to greater amounts of manganese, Silicon and copper than normal carbon steels.
STAINLESS STEELS: Stainless steels contain chromium, nickel and other alloying elements, you keep them bright, hard and resistant to rust and oxidation despite the action of moisture.
SEE ALL TYPES OF SWORDS